I answered a Q in https://support.capturingreality.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/360008683312 but then thought it sholud be a new thread. Comment and better info would be welcome.
AFAIK - my interim discoveries in finding out what makes a 'good' photo set -
Sharpness - if using Depth of Field (rather than autofocus), set a higher standard - in https://www.pointsinfocus.com/tools/depth-of-field-and-equivalent-lens-calculator >Advanced Options, set Circle of Confusion to d/2000 not default d/1500. For best DoF, use small aperture like f11 but not too small like f22 or difraction sets in.
Freedom from Noise - use the camera's 'native' slow ISO, usually ISO 100.
Those two together mean slow shutter speed - so use tripod if necessary, and flash for interiors.
Not sure whether blurred and/or noisy shots should be weeded out, or left in - 'the more the merrier'.
Not sure whether improving the camera mpx - e.g. in my case from old Nikon's 10.2mpx to my desired Fuji's 24mpx - would help with the surface bubbliness. Of course, taking sq.rt of (24/10.2)x area improvement gives only a 1.53x linear improvement - not so dramatic.
Overlap/coverage - 80% overlap is recommended (assuming a single row of images) - i.e. move along one fifth of frame width ea time, meaning each feature in the view appears in five photos. If 'tiling' shots (i.e. a grid of shots overlapping both vertically and horizontally), move along and up/down one third of frame height and width, meaning each feature appears in 3x3 = 9 photos. The 3x3 composition guide grid in many viewfinders shd be useful - mine doesn't have it unfortunately. Moving half frame, meaning each feature appears in 2x2 = 4 photos, might be enough.
RC relies on seeing any given feature from at least two (or 5 or 9 or 4) different angles. So don't do panoramas (fixed camera position, panning around) because then any given feature, though appearing in several shots, is still seen from same angle. Move the camera for every single shot.
Those different angles must link together in a chain having not more than 30o difference, preferably less.
But preferably not less than 10o, def not less than 5o. RC must not see any pair of photos having angles of less than 5o difference, otherwise exponential errors arise in placing the tie point depthwise - basic trigonometry. So more photos is not better if they're crowded together at less than 5o intervals - weed them out. In this case, not 'the more the merrier'.
With a moderate wide-angle lens giving 67o angle of view horizontally x 47o vertically, the 80% horizontal overlap rule gives 13.4o angle difference if the camera is landscape, 9.4o if portrait. The one-third horizontal and vertical overlap rule gives 22.3o difference in the landscape axis, 15.7o in the portrait axis - ideal.
Both close-up and further-out shots are good but must be linked together by intermediate-range shots. Still experimenting with the necessary range-to-subject multiplier, and whether the linking shots must cover the whole scene, or just every-so-often.
Comment on the above scheme would be welcome.
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